On the Road 2007 (Part 5) – Tamnanpar

After visiting Koh Chang, Nam and I headed back toward familiar territory: The miles-long stretch of beach at Rayong. We booked into the same hotel we had stayed at two years before, and I used the net cafe next to the lobby to find a good place to eat.
A review of Tamnanpar Forest Restaurant caught my eye, so we went off on a leisurely drive to find it since we were in relax mode and had no plans in particular. We were in for a surprise!

The view as you enter the grounds from the parking lot of Tamnanpar.
The weather was overcast (we had been plagued by rain showers the whole trip), and rain had muddied the waters, but the forest atmosphere was truly magical. Somebody has invested a lot of money, love, money, time, and money in this restaurant, and it really shows.

As I get older, flowers and insects become more and more captivating.

Two things I never thought I’d see written in English
“Best Public Toilet of the Year,” you say?
The very thought of a Best Public Toilet intrigues me… Who awards something like this? Is there an impartial panel of judges that visits public toilets on their free time, tallying piss stains on concrete floors and drunken scrawlings on gecko-infested walls? What is their stance on squat vs. western toilets, or paper vs. water/fingers?
Wondering about such things are a waste of time, however, because as it turns out, Tamnanpar inarguably has the Best Public Toilets, Ever. Take a look for yourself:

This is what you see when you are standing in front of a urinal.

Speaking of urinals, I could pee here all day.

Paper AND a spray hose – no standing buckets of fetid dookiewater here!

The majestic pathway to the magical men’s restroom

GENT!

LADY! I think you can get in trouble for taking photos like this in most places.

The inside of the LADY room, courtesy of Nam.

The center display of the main dining hall. Very cool.

Nam in front of some of the waterfalls in back of the restaurant.

Billed creature with webbed feet.

Nessies?

Another Skink Thing.
The food at Tamnanpar was very good, but not exceptional. However, the restrooms more than made up for any culinary shortcomings.
Unfortunately, we did not stick around for the nightly entertainment which includes an “Indy Jones” dance troupe performance of some kind – we’ll have to go back again with a video camera sometime. If you’re ever in Rayong looking for a cool place to visit, you might want to check this place out.
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All links for the On the Road 2007 series:
On the Road 2007 (Part 1)
On the Road 2007 (Part 2)
On the Road 2007 (Part 3) – Koh Chang
On the Road 2007 (Part 4) – Overloaded
On the Road 2007 (Part 5) – Tamnanpar
On the Road 2007 (Part 6) – The Animatronic Chicken Roasters of Rayong, Thailand

Iguana skillet

I woke up today and stretched out on my balcony like I do every morning. The hybrid eucalyptus/native vegetation forest has grown to twice its height since I arrived here at the end of last year, and the native wildlife has really settled in. It’s nice to watch fireflies playing tag before I go to sleep and wake up to bird calls new to my ears. This morning I looked down on our cooking area and saw an iguana chilling out on my cast iron skillet (note: It might the same kind I photographed at my university a while back).
He cocked his head at me as I approached:

what up, foo?
This out-of-focus photo is the only one I took that shows his full tail length. Amazingly, he let me approach to within macro distance, so the other shots came out somewhat better:

(as always, click on photos to open a larger version in a pop-up)

Escaping the Bangkok Hilton

This is not the Hilton of which I speak, this is.
Richard Barrow has scored an exclusive interview with the author of Escape, “the true story of the only Westerner ever to break out of Thailand’s Bangkok Hilton, aka.Klong Prem Prison.” He’s currently posted the first part of the interview; I’m looking forward to the final part.
Note: I won’t buy the book, but I wouldn’t mind downloading it.

On the Road 2007 (Part 4) – Overloaded

After visiting Koh Chang, we took the ferry back to the mainland. Our car had travelled a thousand kilometers over hills and beaches and muddy back roads, and showed every bit of it:

wash me
In Chantaburi, I spotted the coolest lamp posts I’ve ever seen:

I want these in front of my house.
…and also some entertaining signage:

“The school at work place”
I thought this sign at a highway rest stop was pretty funny (but Nam called me a dumbass):



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– O V E R L O A D E D –
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The highways on the road home were filled with trucks carrying fruit up north to sell. This of course resulted in fruits of all types being spilled all over the road in places; accident spots were marked with smashed durian and dragonfruit. I was careful to keep a safe distance away from trucks in front as well as in back since it might suck to run over a durian at 140kph as much as to be rear ended by a 2-ton pickup carrying a ton of fresh mangosteen.

durian

rambutan

who knows?

I just like the balance of this shot.

The same trucks as above, but check out the tailgate of the red one!

Perhaps the most ridiculously overloaded truck we saw the whole trip.
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All links for the On the Road 2007 series:
On the Road 2007 (Part 1)
On the Road 2007 (Part 2)
On the Road 2007 (Part 3) – Koh Chang
On the Road 2007 (Part 4) – Overloaded
On the Road 2007 (Part 5) – Tamnanpar
On the Road 2007 (Part 6) – The Animatronic Chicken Roasters of Rayong, Thailand

There was a murder

…just down the road today, at a student’s dorm just outside our housing tract. Nam saw the crowd of people who had gathered to watch when she came home, so we walked down the street to ask what was up. Some guy supposedly shot his girlfriend for cheating on him. Dumbass. Puppy love is some stupid shit to shoot someone over.
Gun violence out here in rural Thailand is more prevalent than I thought it would be what with the strict gun laws and the whole Land of Smiles/mai pen rai thing. Shit, people are people though, right? People tell me it’s much more likely for a Thai person to be shot by a relative than a non-relative. I can’t figure out if that’s a good thing or bad. It brings to mind that quote from Ichi the Killer, though: “There’s no love in your violence.”
UPDATE: It turns out the shitbird capped himself after killing his girlfriend.

Buddha Factory


Taken in Kosum Phisai, Thailand.
Hitherto known only for its monkey reserve and a delicious Thai oden-like dish (Thai: “yentafo”) Kosum Phisai may be put on the map by the multitude of statue/buddha image workshops dotting the roadside. The monkey reserve is supposedly one of the best in the country, and is a promising recruiting ground for my future monkey army.

Why do Thais use a fork and spoon for eating?

My apologies to Kevin for using his post here. It’s just too damn interesting to let slip by for a chowhound like me. I intend to use this post as the start of a series on the history of the spoon and fork in Thailand.
Kevin’s original post is reproduced below:

Thailand and the fork
I normally think of the fork as a Western implement, but after complaining about the lack of chopsticks at a Thai resto I visited a few days back, commenters have been writing in to say that both Thai restaurants and Thais in Thailand use forks when eating. My brain refuses to accept this, so I pass the question to those two unquestionable authorities, Justin and Nam.
What say you, J&N? Are Thais a fork people? And if they are, how the hell did they get that way? Is Theravada Buddhism somehow to blame?

My response:

First of all, I’m sorry this response is late but I wanted to ask around about the history of eating utensils in Thailand, and then when I went home yesterday, my net connection was down.
> Are Thais a fork people?
Thais are primarily a spoon people. The spoon is held in the strong hand and the weak hand holds the fork, which plays only a supporting role by scooping food onto the spoon . In fact, it’s used in such a way that it could easily be replaced by another spoon. Of course, that would look even more ridiculous than the current arrangement, which may explain the use of a fork at all. Logically, the next question should be, “why not use knives?” I have interviewed around twenty people since yesterday, and have heard three reasons for this:
A. Historical explanation: The knife is a weapon, so it was banished at the table. The seeming banishment is no joke, I think my house may be the only one in a fifty mile radius that has a full set of both steak and butter knives.
B. Practical explanation #1: Thai food is served in bite-sized pieces and there’s no reason to cut it before eating. I kind of have to call bullshit on this one, I think it’s true for the most part, however, I often see people biting a large piece of seafood, sausage, or meat in half because it is too large, or sawing it into smaller pieces with their spoon. Also, there are many Thai dishes that are not served in bite-sized pieces (which might be easier eaten with another utensil or combination of utensils), such as whole steamed/deep fried fish, long-stemmed vegetables, and other various foods that need to be divided before eating.
C. Practical explanation #2: It’s the easiest combination of utensils/methods to eat with (once you are used to it). This explanation rings true to me. Basically, you will be hard pressed to get people here to do anything that requires extra effort without a serious motivator. I’m not saying that in a negative way, I’m just saying that’s the way it is. If you think about it, the only thing easier than eating with a spoon/fork (again, if you are used to it) is eating with your hands, and that’s exactly why many people here in the Northeastern region of Thailand completely forego the use of utensils when eating certain foods such as grilled meat, sticky rice, and even somtam (papaya salad). I, myself, love eating with my fingers (that’s one of the main reasons I like eating sushi when in Japan – it’s one of the only foods that appeals to all of your senses). But I digress.
It is my opinion that most Thai people, even those who use them every day, cannot use a knife properly (safely), and definitely not at the table. Fork usage isn’t that hard so I imagine most can use one (in a primary role) if they ever eat pasta or steak, or at a westernized restaurant that sets the table with knife/fork/no spoon (they do exist, even out here in the sticks). Chopsticks are used in a primary role at noodle (as in, noodles served in soup) joints and in Chinese/Japanese/Korean restaurants. I’ve met one Thai this week who cannot use chopsticks, and one who prefers not to, even when eating a bowl of noodles (ironically, they both eat wet noodles with a FORK! Heinous! That’s just being a bad Asian, IMHO.)
> Is Theravada Buddhism somehow to blame?
At this point, I would say no. Although I’m suspicious about those fucking Templars. Seriously, though, I think this has more to do with the influence of the King a century ago (Thailand’s most revered, King Rama V) than it does with religion. But I need to research this more.
>…how the hell did they get that way?
Researching the history of utensil usage in Thai on the Internet has been a bit frustrating. I will dig deeper when I have time. What I’m looking for is evidence supporting any of the theories on the net, and indeed, any of the information I’ve written above.
Also, I like Dr. Hodges’ explanation above more than any other I’ve seen thus far.

Yes, I aspire to be a utensil nerd.
To be continued, hopefully.