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Category: Thai Society/Culture
Buddha Factory
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Taken in Kosum Phisai, Thailand.
Hitherto known only for its monkey reserve and a delicious Thai oden-like dish (Thai: “yentafo”) Kosum Phisai may be put on the map by the multitude of statue/buddha image workshops dotting the roadside. The monkey reserve is supposedly one of the best in the country, and is a promising recruiting ground for my future monkey army.
Why do Thais use a fork and spoon for eating?
My apologies to Kevin for using his post here. It’s just too damn interesting to let slip by for a chowhound like me. I intend to use this post as the start of a series on the history of the spoon and fork in Thailand.
Kevin’s original post is reproduced below:
Thailand and the fork
I normally think of the fork as a Western implement, but after complaining about the lack of chopsticks at a Thai resto I visited a few days back, commenters have been writing in to say that both Thai restaurants and Thais in Thailand use forks when eating. My brain refuses to accept this, so I pass the question to those two unquestionable authorities, Justin and Nam.
What say you, J&N? Are Thais a fork people? And if they are, how the hell did they get that way? Is Theravada Buddhism somehow to blame?
My response:
First of all, I’m sorry this response is late but I wanted to ask around about the history of eating utensils in Thailand, and then when I went home yesterday, my net connection was down.
> Are Thais a fork people?
Thais are primarily a spoon people. The spoon is held in the strong hand and the weak hand holds the fork, which plays only a supporting role by scooping food onto the spoon . In fact, it’s used in such a way that it could easily be replaced by another spoon. Of course, that would look even more ridiculous than the current arrangement, which may explain the use of a fork at all. Logically, the next question should be, “why not use knives?” I have interviewed around twenty people since yesterday, and have heard three reasons for this:
A. Historical explanation: The knife is a weapon, so it was banished at the table. The seeming banishment is no joke, I think my house may be the only one in a fifty mile radius that has a full set of both steak and butter knives.
B. Practical explanation #1: Thai food is served in bite-sized pieces and there’s no reason to cut it before eating. I kind of have to call bullshit on this one, I think it’s true for the most part, however, I often see people biting a large piece of seafood, sausage, or meat in half because it is too large, or sawing it into smaller pieces with their spoon. Also, there are many Thai dishes that are not served in bite-sized pieces (which might be easier eaten with another utensil or combination of utensils), such as whole steamed/deep fried fish, long-stemmed vegetables, and other various foods that need to be divided before eating.
C. Practical explanation #2: It’s the easiest combination of utensils/methods to eat with (once you are used to it). This explanation rings true to me. Basically, you will be hard pressed to get people here to do anything that requires extra effort without a serious motivator. I’m not saying that in a negative way, I’m just saying that’s the way it is. If you think about it, the only thing easier than eating with a spoon/fork (again, if you are used to it) is eating with your hands, and that’s exactly why many people here in the Northeastern region of Thailand completely forego the use of utensils when eating certain foods such as grilled meat, sticky rice, and even somtam (papaya salad). I, myself, love eating with my fingers (that’s one of the main reasons I like eating sushi when in Japan – it’s one of the only foods that appeals to all of your senses). But I digress.
It is my opinion that most Thai people, even those who use them every day, cannot use a knife properly (safely), and definitely not at the table. Fork usage isn’t that hard so I imagine most can use one (in a primary role) if they ever eat pasta or steak, or at a westernized restaurant that sets the table with knife/fork/no spoon (they do exist, even out here in the sticks). Chopsticks are used in a primary role at noodle (as in, noodles served in soup) joints and in Chinese/Japanese/Korean restaurants. I’ve met one Thai this week who cannot use chopsticks, and one who prefers not to, even when eating a bowl of noodles (ironically, they both eat wet noodles with a FORK! Heinous! That’s just being a bad Asian, IMHO.)
> Is Theravada Buddhism somehow to blame?
At this point, I would say no. Although I’m suspicious about those fucking Templars. Seriously, though, I think this has more to do with the influence of the King a century ago (Thailand’s most revered, King Rama V) than it does with religion. But I need to research this more.
>…how the hell did they get that way?
Researching the history of utensil usage in Thai on the Internet has been a bit frustrating. I will dig deeper when I have time. What I’m looking for is evidence supporting any of the theories on the net, and indeed, any of the information I’ve written above.
Also, I like Dr. Hodges’ explanation above more than any other I’ve seen thus far.
Yes, I aspire to be a utensil nerd.
To be continued, hopefully.
Thai monks do not wear underwear
Just following up on a question asked in this comment thread.
BTW, the monk I asked to prove it was hung like a goddamn elephant.
Carabao (Rural Thai Graffiti)
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The Thai rock band Carabao is the Rolling Stones.of Asia.
This photo was taken at a workshop where they cast bronze Buddha images. The wooden basket on the floor is actually a cage for keeping chickens in – usually fighting chickens, because normal chickens are just let free to roam and forage and cross roads or whatever.
Airbag Story
On Saturday. I went to my homeboy Ot’s shop, Wattana Sound, to get a bigger horn put on the car since it seems to be the only deterrent to the 50,000 students haphazardly riding motor scooters on the local roads.
His worker takes off the steering column cover and leans under to examine wiring bundles. He uses a tester and checks each wire and then inadvertently triggers the driver’s side airbag… POW! The airbag catches him square in the eye and is louder than a tire blowing out (I know this because I was across the street when it happened).
So eventually I return to the shop and Ot is waiting for me and shows me the problem… I make sure the worker is all right (he has a very small cut over his eye) and Ot assures me he will cover the cost for replacement at the Nissan dealer. I tell him that it’s more than just the airbag since the collision system is tied into the seatbelts and active head restraints via computer (actually, it turns out there’s a spring loaded system in the rear seats as well); Ot breaks out some cans of Beer Lao and starts making calls.
Somewhere in Bangkok, the steering assembly for an A33 Cefiro is placed on a truck bound for Mahasarakham, where we will have it installed on Monday.
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On Sunday morning, I am driving Nam to work when I hear this curious vibrating noise between my seat and the car door. I reach under to see what it is and my hand comes back up holding a U-shaped wire hair holder-thingie. Nam immediately demands to know who’s it is, and I’m hard pressed to answer, because I just have no idea… She’s has no reason to be suspicious, really, but then again, neither of us has any idea how the hell a girl’s hair thingie got in my car.
I thought about it all day and a weird scenario evolved in my head… I told Nam about it and she thought I was totally bullshitting, but we went to confirm my theory – we went back to Ot’s car shop. The worker who had been doing the wiring has long hair, and the force of the airbag deploying in his face knocked the hair thingie clear off his head and under the seat. Awesome!
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Yesterday we got the car fixed, so all’s well that ends well, I guess.
On the Road 2007 (Part 3) – Koh Chang
There are several ferries running from Trat to Koh Chang. We chose the Center Point Ferry because it was the only one that looked like it wouldn’t sink if hit by a stiff breeze. The signs for it on the roadway emphasized the fact that they were using Japanese ferries, which was somehow very comforting (I don’t know how I would feel about trusting my life, wife, and car to a ferry made in, say, Kazakhstan or Luxembourg, you know?). It might be since I rode the ferry so many times between Awaji Island and Osaka, but I guess it’s the same thing applied to electronics or cars.
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Ferries are great places to check out other people’s cars. Check out the gravel truck.
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All of the trucks are carrying building materials!
As it turns out, even though Koh Chang is the second largest island in Thailand, most of it consists of protected forest so everything has to be carried over.
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At first I thought these life jackets were solid proof of this ship’s Japanese origin. However…
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Not exactly comforting
I couldn’t decide which was more unsettling, the date of manufacture or the implication that these life jackets don’t work well immersed in petroleum products… Surely these weren’t made for papyrus rafts or galleons, right? Steamships?
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Like many tourist boomtowns, Koh Chang has a bit of a confused identity due to the high turnover of businesses. Businesses have to evolve in order to survive, and this also results in some curious hybrids:
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A barber shop/real estate company
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A burger joint turned into tattoo parlor and postcard shop
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This sign, complete with roof, somehow reminded me of the dark wooden ones for onsen in Kurokawa, Kyushu.
We had arrived on the island in the afternoon and just followed the stream of cars off the ferry. Most seemed to be heading down the west coast of the island, so we just followed them since I was worried about getting stuck in the mud since it had been raining off and on all week. The strips of shops and whatnot defining the town areas were, quite honestly, depressing. We hadn’t driven a thousand kilometers away from home to be surrounded by druggie loser expat scum and backpackers in search of The Island, but that’s exactly who most of the island (and especially the town areas) catered to… My wanderlust soon kicked in and I pointed the car south and drove up and down hills, around blind corners, and past breathtaking views of the ocean from the tops of jungle cliffs.
We were on a search for the best accomodations possible, not too expensive yet in a nice location, and preferably away from fat sweaty Europeans in thongs and college students having mushroom epiphanies. Of couse, this led us somewhat off the beaten track:
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My car said “oh hell no!” I said, “mush, bitch!” … and of course, that puddle was covering a foot-deep hole.
After following several muddy roads and doubling back after notfinding suitable accomodation, we drove as far as the main road went before reaching a guard shack and this ridiculously pompous sign:
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Five bucks just to enter? In Thailand?
So here’s where we hit a curveball. The guard came out of the shack speaking furiously into a two-way and asked if we had reservations. I said no but asked if we could take a look around inside and decide there. He said we would have to pay to even drive onto the resort property. I said no way. He told me to wait a minute and spoke into the two-way. The man on the other end asked what kind of car we were driving.
“Cefiro.”
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Membership has its privileges, yo.
Welcome to the Koh Chang Grand Lagoona. The manager was nice and sympathetic to a poor teaching couple from the country and offered us a private boat at one-third of the standard rate. Oh yes.
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Morning view. The lagoon is salt water and contains approximately ten hundred thousand million fish.
We borrowed some bicycles and rode through the surf and around the huge resort grounds.
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Covering up the resort’s unfortunate little secret.
This resort is pretty much perfect, and priced accordingly. That’s why it hosts royal family members, Miss Universe, and rich Thai families. We felt a bit out of place there, but everyone was really nice about it anyway. There were only two disappointing things about the resort: Weak water pressure on the botas, and an extremely rocky beach. The workers comb the beach all day, but in the surf there are fist-size rocks rolling around and waiting to break your ankle. This beach, in effect, is unswimmable and unwadeable, which is just a damn shame since it defeats the purpose of a beach resort. I guess rich people don’t like getting sand in their ass cracks or something, because none of them seemed even slightly interested in the water.
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Our future parking space?
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Conclusion: The western coast of Koh Chang is just okay. Sometimes beautiful but always expensive. It’s also overrun by foreign shitheads and the weasely natives that follow in their wake. If we’re down that way again, we might check out the eastern coast, though.
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All links for the On the Road 2007 series:
On the Road 2007 (Part 1)
On the Road 2007 (Part 2)
On the Road 2007 (Part 3) – Koh Chang
On the Road 2007 (Part 4) – Overloaded
On the Road 2007 (Part 5) – Tamnanpar
On the Road 2007 (Part 6) – The Animatronic Chicken Roasters of Rayong, Thailand
Thailand Blogspot Ban
All of you on blogspot.com are apparently dangerous… You have all been banned in Thailand for the past couple weeks. No word on when the ban will be lifted, since it was never officially imposed. The reason behind the ban was apparently to suppress any anti-gov sentiment during the previous party’s court ruling last week (they got disbanded).
FWEEDOM OF PEACH, FUWEBA!
This is me, holding my tongue
You know, it really shouldn’t be illegal to shoot a certain number of in-laws in one’s lifetime, say three or so. At the very least, dueling (between in-laws) should be brought back on a trial basis.
That is all.
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On second thought, it sucks to end on such a hopeful note, so here’s a photo of a plate of delicious bugs that a gardener gathered from our backyard forest and asked if I wanted to share for lunch:
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Don’t mistake the ant eggs for grains of rice. Homeboy must have dug up an ant colony, among other things – Nam poked around it with a twig and a small dead frog emerged.
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Front and center is a queen, I believe. To the left, a soldier tugs on a dead beetle thing. That’s as much as I’ll attempt with identification…. Mm-mmm!
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These red ants grow to about half an inch long and when they bite, you can FEEL the pincers sinking in… When they crawl up your pant leg, it’s frantic monkey dance time.
Oh, as an afterthought I might as well admit that this fine meal was just…. too goddamn disgusting to try, even for me.