The First Wave

Ever since high school, I've had it engrained in my mind that surfing was not something I could do. So it's typical I've gotten hooked onto surfing right when I'm about to leave San Diego, right when my car has died, and after I've given all my surfboards away. Don't get the wrong idea; I'm definitely not shredding up huge waves or doing fancy tricks, but I'm standing on a board that is on moving water. That sort of coordination required is a very big accomplishment for me: someone who is clumsy, unathletic and swims like a rock (as in, I sink). I've always been a fearful of deep water, the ocean, sharks and drowning and so imagine my surprise when I find myself wanting to go out more and more.

My first wave standing was surreal. It sounds cheesy, but it was. I felt like I was standing so high and floating above everything else. The board doesn't really touch where you see the surface of water since a wave is carrying you higher, so it feels like you're floating above the water. It's very strange but exhilarating. I guess it feels like an accomplishment because even though I tried surfing in high school, I failed miserably. Maybe it was because the waves were too rough, or the board was too big, or I was too weak, or was taught incorrectly, but I had accepted that surfing was just not for me.

This time, my teacher taught me in a very simple but effective way. The key thing is to keep balance and arch your back. I'm not kidding! And, he said, that you have to commit to whatever you're doing, which speaks in great volumes. If you hesitate at all, the wave will either chew you up or pass you by. And of course, I had to see this metaphorically with life in general.

Anyways, I will always remember my first successful wave but now my excitement lies in the next. I've been cruisin' Craigslist for cheap boards and wetsuits so if you happen to know of any, let me know. =)